I admit, it took a few trips to NYC before I made the time to visit the Lower East Side Tenement Museum. My poor excuses were that it is a little out of the way and in a part of the city that I was then unfamiliar. But I was haunted by the emotional stories (happy and sad) that one of my ex-history professors shared with us. He had very fond memories of spending his childhood summers with his grandmother in the same neighborhood as the Museum. It was the old nostalgic in me and I felt the old tug of the heartstrings and knew that there wasn't time for more excuses!
When we arrived, we found that the "museum" itself is actually down the block from the visitor's center - so just an FYI, you need to go there first to get your tickets and tour schedule (or you can buy them directly online like we did to avoid possible confusion and lines). It also has a very nice little gift shop that sells items directly related to the museum that you would find difficult to find elsewhere. There is also a film/media center where guests can view videos related to the Tenement and the families that lived there. I was already impressed before the tour, and one of the best NYC experiences I've had was on its way...
First, some basic facts: the Tenement was opened in 1863 by a German immigrant named Lukas Glockner. Glockner was an intelligent businessman (the first story served as a storefront, as seen in the photo above) who saw the need and the dollar signs of housing for incoming immigrants to the country. 97 Orchard Street was the first American residential experience for more than 7,000 tenants from twenty different nations between the years of 1863-1935. The two main apartments that we visited and discussed were the German-Jewish Gumpertz family in the 1870s and the Sicilian-Catholic Baldizzi family of the 1930s.When I took the tour (lasting approximately one hour), the museum had altered two different apartments during two different time periods exactly as they were occupied by real and actual families. What this means is that the museum used all documentation from the tenants and contacted any living family members that remembered the building or had stories, items, and photos to share. Amazingly, they didn't have any trouble finding great-great grandchildren, 90-year old nieces, and others that were more than willing to share their stories (and also donated items that once existed in the apartments) to further the Tenement's knowledge and make the tours that much more interesting.
If you are unfamiliar with a tenement, it was basically a residential complex that held as many people as possible. Each apartment had one tiny bedroom and a sitting/family room that housed on average 6 people, if not more. There was one shared toilet on each floor when running water was installed (a law enacted by the city to curb disease - the old way was to dump chamber pots anywhere outside!) The noise our group made while climbing the wooden steps throughout the building was sometimes deafening. Some apartments had windows looking into neighboring apartments (very odd)! From what I remember, it had something to do with old fire codes and having that open space would help in some way...how, I don't know.
Enough jabber. No one is allowed to photograph the inside of the building, which is unfortunate for us because pictures would strengthen your imagination as well as this blog. But, luckily you are able to take the virtual tour that is available to give you a better idea of what the museum entails. You can also study their tenement encyclopedia as well as genealogical resourses and other research there is available online.
There are many surprises of the neighborhood that I didn't realize until we were there - it is literally yards away from Chinatown, which is another equally fascinating and essential stop for the curious tourist. It was by far the best place to grab something to drink, find a bench, and simply watch the neighborhood residents do what they do. You would see nothing like this anywhere between the East and West Coasts, that's for sure!
I should also add that none of my relatives stayed in NYC after immigration for long - many of them had Midwestern destinations (St. Paul, Milwaukee, various small towns in the Dakotas) that were all ready awaiting their arrival. But the loving everything old and real and historic part of my mind couldn't keep me away from the Tenement Museum. If you've ever wondered how it really was or all ready heard, it is a destination you have to see to close that gap. There is also another apartment that is now being renovated and is slated to open in March 2008. It is the living quarters of one of many Irish families that once lived in the tenement, the Moores, who lived there circa 1869 on the fourth floor. I can't wait to see it!
Oh, yes! Since you're there, consider taking the walking tour of the Lower East Side for more delectable history that you're sure to appreciate.
