Monday, November 12, 2007

East Village - don't be intimidated. You'll be a fly on the wall.

Since WWII, the grungy-yet-vogue East Village has morphed into THE place for the arts. It began when artists, musicians, and writers gathered after Greenwich Village began its change into a wealthier neighborhood and real estate prices soared. The Beat generation found its accomodation in the East Village in the '50s and '60s, punk rock was reared at the infamous CBGB's club, and artists Keith Haring and Jeff Koons turned the neighborhood into the country's hippest center for art. Things took a turn in the 1970s when heroin was introduced in the neighborhood and it began to literally fall apart. In the 1980s developers saw potential in the once-thriving East Village, and the rest is history. Today it is an electric, multi-cultural mosaic of people, restaurants, and boutiques. Just taking a walk through the streets is a must for any Manhattan visitor.

In the early 19th century the East Village was known as a wealthy-yet-middle class neighborhood. The landscape was full of great mansions and homes until the late 19th century when the largest number of immigrants began arriving in New York City. Few remnants of this past can still be found amid the generic NYC apartment buildings, such as the Nicholas and Elizabeth Stuyvesant-Fish House. Built in the Federal style in 1803 for the great-grandson of the last Dutch general of what was then called New Amsterdam, it is one of the earliest residential buildings in the city. Its size and beautiful brick exterior contrasts greatly with the cramped dwellings that surround the home. The building is now owned by the nearby Cooper Union College for the Advancement of Science and Art and serves as the official residence of the institution's president.

If you're a fan of architecture and/or jazz, 151 Avenue B is a must see. This building is part of the brick and brownstone rowhouses from the mid-19th century. It is known as "Bird's House," as the first floor was home and crash-pad-between-gigs to Charlie Parker from 1950 to 1954. He resided here with his wife and children until his young daughter's death. There is a story that Parker called the police during a hysterical episode (supposedly drunk or high) for help, and before they arrived someone broke into the apartment while he was there. This event clearly scared him into sanity, and when the police arrived he thanked them for arresting the burglar. The would-be thief saved Parker from a prolonged stay at the state mental hospital. Thankfully, this building is listed on the New York State and National Register of Historic Places. When you pass by, think of saxphones playing and the steps you take were already planted there by Bird over 50 years ago.

Another neighborhood survivor is the New York City Marble Cemetery. It is only open to the public during occassional tours, but you can try to make an appointment for a private tour. You can get a good look by peering through the iron gate to see the beautiful and dignified property. The cemetery was first used in 1831 and is said to be the second nonsectarian burial ground in the City. One interesting tidbit is that President James Monroe was one of the first to be buried here. He moved to New York after his wife died to live with his son-in-law, Samuel Gouverneur. Monroe died within a year of his move, and he was buried in the Governeur vault. Decades later, some Virginians erected a monument over the vault. This spurred the Virginia Legislature to have Monroe's remains moved to his home state. The cemetery received its well-deserved landmark status in 1969.

For lack of better photos, I think that the mosaic-tiled street post to the left (decorated with Jethro Tull and Joni Mitchell) can give you a good visual idea what the East Village is about. It is a place where nothing is uniform; there is no main demographic, no group so populous that it stands out from the rest, and there are no social boundaries. You could call the East Village New York's greatest melting pot. No where else in the city will you hear so many languages and see as many shades of people. The residents range from NYU students, Ukranian refugees, musicians, ripened hippies, Japanese immigrants, slackers, stockbrokers, and the homeless. Why the consistent population and popularity? I read once (ad libbing) that the East Village is "one of the last neighborhood neighborhoods left." It is a strong statement, and obviously one that countless thousands will always agree with.